Acetamide MEA - Water soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and nonanionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants compatible only with cationics, adds shine.

Alcohol - A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, ethyl alcohol (used by breweries, the only drinkable alcohol) through moisturizing agents like glycerine or propylene glycol to fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and sugars (multi alcohols).

Algae Extract - Extracted from seaweed and pondscum, rich in minerals, algae extract is claimed to prevent wrinkles, very moisturizing.

Algal Polysaccharides - Extract from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian coast known for its moisturizing potential and lubricity.

Allantoin - Water soluble crystal known for its ability to help heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

AMP (Aminoethyl Propanol) - An organic pH adjuster used to maximize the effects of styling products.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - The ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate derived from the natural coconut alcohols, it is a mild anionic surfactant widely used at acidic (mild) pH values.

Amodimethicone with Cetrimonium Chloride - Cationic emulsion for hair conditioning; all the benefits of silicone without build-up.

Amphoteric Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges. Their properties depend upon th pH of the system and they may behave like anionics or cationics. Some of the finest amphoterics are used in shampoo systems formulated for dry or chemically treated hair due to their mildness and light conditioning properties.

Annatto Extract - A food grade vegetable dye from a tropical tree, yellow to orange.

Annionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a negative electric charge. These surfactants are primarily used as cleansing agents in relatively mild shampoos for oily or normal to oily hair

Beet Extract - Extract from the stem base of the beet used for its reddish color.

Benzophenone - 3 and 4 - A sunscreen that blocks UV - A rays.

Beta Carotene - Found in all plant and many animal tissues, beta carotene is extracted as red crystals or crystalline powder, used as coloring in cosmetics. Also used in the manufacture of Vitamin A. Used also as antioxidant.

Biotin - A naturally occurring vitamin H. Some studies show that it has a positive effect on hair growth when taken internally.

Boric Acid - An inorganic acid and mild antiseptic, and preservative.

Butylene Glycol - Organic humectant similar to propylene glycol.

Caramel - Used as a coloring in cosmetics and a soothing agent in lotions. Produced by heating sugar or glucose and adding small amounts of alkali or a trace mineral acid during heating.

Carbomer 940 - An organic gelling agent.

Carrageenan - Natural thickening agent.

Cationic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule bears a positive charge. These sufactants usually have strong conditioning properties and are used in conditioners, moisturizing treatments and paks. Cationics often have antimicrobial properties (germicides).

Ceteareth - 5 - An emollient and emulsifier. See Cetyl Alcohol.

Cetearyl Alcohol - A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.

Ceteth - 2 - A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. Water soluble. Emollient and conditioning agent and emulsifier.

Ceteth - 20 - See ceteth - 2.

Cetrimonium Bromide - A cationic conditioning agent and antiseptic widely used in the pharmaceutical industry. Due to its high cost, it is rarely used in cosmetics. Adds shine.

Cetrimonium Chloride - Quaternary conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium bromide, but more suitable for water systems.

Cetyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil widely used as an emollient and stabilizing agent in conditioning and moisturizing treatments (emulsions).

Cetyldimonium Chloride - Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with sufactants, often used in shampoos.

Chloroxylenol - A crystalline, water soluble substance used as an antiseptic, germicide and fungicide. Penetrates skin. No known toxicity in humans when diluted below 20%.

Citric Acid - A natural, edible organic acid used to adjust pH, one of the natural hydroxy acids derived from citrus fruits.

Citric Acid USP - (see Citric Acid)

Cocamide DEA - Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. Also assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocamide MEA (see Cocamide DEA) - Mono - amide (MEA) as opposed to diamide (DEA).

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - An amphoteric surfactant used as a cleanser. Known for its mild conditioning properties. Derived from coconut fatty acids.

Coco Betaine - (see Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Cyclomethicone - A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

Lactamide MEA - (see Acetamide MEA)

Lactic Acid - A natural, mild organic acid prepared by fermentation. Normally present in blood, sour milk, sauerkraut, pickles, and other food products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in cosmetics to adjust acid/alkali balance. Lactic acid is a primary component in the skin's natural buffer system.

Laureth - 3 - It is the polyethylene glycol ether of Lauryl Alcohol, principal alcohol of coconut oil. It's modified to give it a "water loving" character. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Lecithin - From the Greek meaning "egg yolk". Natural antioxidant, emollient and emulsifier used in a variety of cosmetics. Egg yolk is 8 - 9% lecithin.

Lineolamido Propyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate - Antistatic and hair conditioning agent

Magnesium Citrate - Magnesium salt of citric acid.

Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine Methacrylates Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hairsprays.

Methylchloroisthiazolinone - A preservative used in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methylisothiazolinone - Used with above as a preservative in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methyl Paraben - Preservative derived from benzoic acid. Usually used in emulsions in conjunction with propyl paraben. It's non - toxic and approved for use in foods. It is effective against a wide range of bacteria and fungi. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a wax. Recommended concentration in cosmetics 0.2 - 0.3%.

Myristalkonium Chloride - Derived from fatty acids, it has anti - static and moisturizing properties.

Niacinamide - Mild scalp stimulant with Vitamin B. Also used as a synergizing agent.

Nonionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol 12 - Used as a non ionic surface active agent and as a dispersing agent.

O - Cresol - White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - (see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)

Octyl Methoxycinnamate - A sunscreen that blocks UV - B rays that is derived from cinnamic acid.

Oleth 20 - Organic perfume stabilizer, derived from unsaturated fatty acids.

Orange Peel Extract - Extract from "green" variety of oranges, very rich in natural elements. Used for color.

TEA Laureth Sulfate - A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A very effective, yet very mild, cleansing agent.

TEA Lauryl Sulfate - (similar to TEA Laureth Sulfate)

Tetrasodium EDTA - Same as sodium EDTA or Na - EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and "makes" them water soluble. Reduces build - up.

Triethanolamine (TEA) - An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Also serves as a softener in hair spray.

Triethyl Citrate - Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives.

Tyrosine - A building block of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

Vinyl Acetate Crotonic Acid Neodecanate Copolymer - Hairspray fixative

Xanthan Gum - A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thickener.

  THIS *IS* my hobby!  I hope this information helps.

Thanks for that awesome posting Bikerbraid!  I'm trying to get my hair long and healthy (of course), and trying to use as much natural ingredients as possible. I don't have a *real* reason for this, just something I've decided to do, plus I've heard some rather disturbing info regarding Propylene Glycol which seems to be in most hair products.  Anyone have suggestions (product or otherwise) for thick, curly hair?  Thanks!

I don´t know if you have discussed about this before, but here´s a list of the most often used silicones:

- Silicone
- Methicone
- Dimethicone
- Trimethicone
- Amodimethicone
- Cyclotetrasiloxane
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Cyclohexasiloxane
- Hexamethyldisiloxane
- Trimethylsiloxysilicate
- Trimethylsilylamodimethicone

These are usually not harmful if in conditioners (used only to the lenghts). In shampoos they can make a build-up on the scalp, which can cause dandruff, seborrea, hair loss and even infections.  , because  the scalp can´t breathe under the build-up. (This is a fact.)

Non-professional shampoos like Panteen, Elvital and Fructis are usually full of these silicones, because they make your hair feel soft, silky and look shiny, and people love that. Silicones are very cheap ingredients, that´s why silicone-free products are more expensive. Really conditioning, nourishing and strengthening products are more pricey, but they just don´t cover the hair with plastic. (This is just my opinion).

I´m sorry if this is an old issue here. I´m very concerned about those silicones and I feel that my duty is to share my knowledge  .

A chemist friend of mine explained to me that Dimethiconol is a silicone in suspension with alcohol.  He felt that the ingredient would not build up nor harm the hair.  It is basically the same as Dimethicone Copolyol which is water soluble.