I wanted to share a chapter from a local history of my town.  It's from Wonderful Old Lawrence, by Elfriede Fischer Rowe.

The chapter is called "Beauty Shops"

What would you think if you were walking down the street on a bright, sunny day and looked up and saw a mop of long hair hanging out of a window?  It was a common sight any sunny day back in the early 1900's if you were walking past Mrs. Kinnear's house at the corner of 8th and Ohio streets, where the Bess Stone Activity Center now is.  Everybody had long hair in those days.

Mrs. Kinnear was a short, dark haired, plump widow.  She talked quite a bit.  When you had your hair washed, it took a long time because all the drying was done by hand-rubbing and the sun.  Your hair was first brushed vigorously, then soaped, rubbed hard, and rinsed over a tin-lined bath tub.  Rain water from the cistern was soft and the castile soap lathered easily.

Mrs. Kinnear had been known to rub salt on the scalp to stimulate it, but one young, black-haired girl, soon found she was turning into a red-head, and that treatment was stopped at her father's request.

Mrs. Kinnear would have you sit on a low stool and hang your hair out the window after she rubbed your scalp good and hard.  As the sun streamed through the window on the south, you would turn first with your face out and then with your face in the room; until your hair was dry.  As people walked by, towards town, they often could recognize some of the owners of the hair by the color.

It cost 25c for a shampoo including having the hair braided or "dressed".  She would take several strands of hair, twist them and pin them on top of your head with hair pins.  When you got home and removed the hair pins, you had a semblance of a wave.  Some of the young high school girls called this process, "The Kinnear Kabob".

More later ...

thanks for sharing!  Can't wait to hear the rest of the story........

I want to read more!!!

Me too!! ;)

Ok, Beauty Shops in old Lawrence, Kansas continued ...

Not long after Mrs. Kinnear was in business, Miss Hilda Lofgren started her shop in her home in the 700 block on Kentucky Street.  Hilda was a tall, blonde, angular woman, who always carried an umbrella when she walked town, whether rain or shine, winter or summer.  She rinsed your hair over a china wash bowl.  The wash bowl was one of those kind with a matching pitcher and waste jar.  All three pieces were used.

Hilda's widowed mother would help her by rubbing the hair dry and visiting with you with each vigorous rub, and each painful jerk of the comb trying to get the snarls out.  Mrs. Lofgren was a large, strong, rather heavy woman.  Once in a while, someone would whisper they had seen a male customer entering the house for scalp treatments, falling hair or receding brow, no doubt.  These appointments were usually after working hours to avoid chance encounters with a lady customer.

You didn't go to a shop oftener than once a month.  For home treatment, it depended upon the season of the year, how often you washed your own hair.  One girl in the neighborhood had a luxurious head of hair.  She shocked us one day by saying she washed her hair in water only twice a year.  She brushed it every night 100 times by count, and often corn meal was rubbed in her scalp and then brushed out.

When drying your hair in the wintertime, you had to stand or sit over a floor radiator or sit by the open oven door in the kitchen.  Devices for curling the hair were ingenious.  Some recall cutting a tin can in strips, wrapping each strip in paper and rolling the hair over each strip.  Rags were used.  Either process, the hair was dampened first.  Kid curlers came next.  These were small pieces of wire covered with kid leather, and you bought them in a variety or department store.

By the time beauty parlors started up downtown, curling irons were used to make the round curl.  The irons worked like a scissors in that the hair was put between the two tongs, and wound around the outside.  The iron was heated over a lamp chimney or a stove burner.  Later, the electric curling iron appeared.  With these instruments, you could also curl your hair at home.

To be continued ...

thanks! :)  I'll be waiting for more!!

Continuing ...

When the Marcel Wave came in, the single heavy bar had to be handled by an operator trained in knowing how to make a deep natural looking wave, and not a round curl.  The bar was heated over a rectangular shaped gas burner about six or seven inches long and two inches wide.  Incidentally, the Marcel Wave started in France when Mr. Marcel, a beauty operator, followed his mother's natural wave to get the natural effect.  The Marcel Wave is practically a lost art today as beauty schools no longer offer it.  It takes too long to learn it.  When the wave was in vogue, K.U. students would get one for a big party, then hurry back to the shop in a day or two to get a retrace for another party, or between times before their next shampoo.

Mrs. Fay H. Brown, a past member of the board of the National Hairdressers and Cosmetologists Association and former State President of the Kansas Cosmetologists Association, came to Lawrence in 1927 and purchased one of the leading beauty shops down town.  She said there were shops in Topeka as far back as 1895.  Marcel waving was all the rage when Mrs. Brown came to Lawrence.  It was followed by comb waving and finger waving.  Hair pins were used to hold the wave in a finger wave.  Pin curls followed, and bobby pins held the hair in place.

Permanents came in during the early 1920's.  They were very expensive.  In Kansas City there were only two or three shops with the reputation of not ruining your hair or burning it off.  Not only were there those hazards, but you risked all of your hair possibly falling out months later, or getting your scalp burned in the process, due to excessive heat.  If you felt you might be getting burned, you would signal the operator who with a bellows would blow on the hot spot.

About 1920, short hair was coming in.  If you decided to make that momentous decision, whether to cut or not to cut, and you decided to cut, you had a permanent at the same time.

My first permanent was in Kansas City and it cost $35.  It took a full day.  Mrs. Brown says the first ones came from wrapping the hair in paper pasteboard tubes.  When the paper became brown, your hair was "done".  The operator would then take a pair of pliers and crack the pasteboard tubes.  Many a permanent came out fuzzy.  Brilliantine was used generously, to take out the fuzz and dryness of the hair.


more later ...

continuing...


The "Frederick" wave was considered one of the best.  The price was one dollar a curl and some heads took as many as sixty curls.  The spiral wave was followed by the Croquinole, in which the hair was wrapped around horizontally.  The popular home permanent was the "Nestle".  A set cost $15.  There were five spiral rods to wrap your hair, and one electric heater.  It would take five or six hours with long hair as you could only do five curls at a time.

Beauty prices in general have been steady with a gradual rise, except during the Depression.  One cutrate shop here was known to have charged 15 cents for a shampoo and 25 cents for a set if you dried your hair at home.  Hair drying in a shop was done first by hand, and then the arm dryer came into existence.  It was portable and was moved around over the head with the operator rubbing the scalp to hasten the drying.  The modern dryers today do not even need heat, but some heat is used merely for the comfort of the customer.  Needless to say, they are much easier on the hair.

There were few legal restrictions on beauty shops in the early years.  You could complete a beauty course in six weeks.  Now it takes nine months.  If you had been practicing the profession, you were exempt in taking the course.  You could hang up a shingle with no experience.  No license was necessary at first.  The operators' uniforms have changed little, except color is now often used instead of white, and materials are mostly drip-dry.  There used to be only two kinds of nail polish -- clear and natural.  Manicures were 50 cents; now they are $1.75 and up.

Going back to the early 1900's, any makeup was looked upon with disfavor.  If you were known to use it, you were just not the right kind of girl.  So, you would rub your cheeks real hard, or pinch them.  Red crepe paper, moistened, was rubbed on the cheeks, too.  One young girl living in a small town, bought rouge in Topeka where the druggist wouldn't know her or tell that she used. it.  Lip sticks were not in existence, so you bit your lips and moistened them often.


to be continued ...

continuing ...


Instead of "teasing" the hair, you "ratted" it.  Toilet water and perfume were in liquid form only.  Deoderants were unheard of and when they finally came on the market, you cnsulted the family physician before you were allowed to use them.  Beauty shops made their own liquid soap by shaving bars of castile soap and mixing the liquid in gallon glass jars.  Brilliantine, to make your hair shine, was used as early as the 1890's.  One home recipe was:

"Eau de Cologne -- 1 oz.
Glycerine -- 1 oz.
Clarified honey -- 2 oz.
Rectified spirit -- 4 oz."

and if you think curling fluid is recent, back in 1890 was this home recipe:

"1 oz. borax
1 drachm gum arabic
1 pt. hot water
2 T. camphor."

Hair coloring was sub rosa.  It was done to cover up the telltale grey hairs.  Rinses and bleaches and dyeing were all done behind curtains.  Lemon juice, paroxide, and camamile tea were used for blondes, either at home or in the shop.

Wigs were rare in those early days.  And if they were worn, it was a dead secret.  Today, the modern woman comes in to the shop carrying her smart looking wig case, discusses how she wants her wig styled, and makes an appointment when to pick it up.  The price is at least double the regular price for a shampoo and set.  The re-do is done on an average of once a month.  Wigs are a convenience today for the woman who wants to swim in the daytime and dance that night.

One K.U. alumnus visting in California this summer, met a former sorority sister of some forty years back.  The first night they were at a party together, she was a blonde; the next time they met, she was chestnut haired; and the third time, a redhead.  The lady was never caught in swimming, so the visitor is still wondering whether her real hair is grey or white.  "Only her haridresser would know for sure."

Printed in Journal-World Nov. 12, 1965


That's all, folks!  Have a happy Easter.   :D

Very interesting!  Thanks for sharing all that information.  Hair care has changed a lot over the years.  Noticing that you were quoting an article written in '65, I was thinking about what has changed since then.  Going back to the mid-50's - does anyone else remember the Toni perms?  They must have been the first of the home perms.  Gawwwd, how I remember how horrible they smelled.  I had one when I was about 6.  It did not take well and I ended up with nothing but frizz.  My mother had it all cut off right away - that was the beginning of a long line of pixie cuts for me!

Quote:

The modern dryers today do not even need heat, but some heat is used merely for the comfort of the customer.

Hi Costello

Being a guy got to confess total ignorance on just about everything :-[ but this quote I found a bit puzzling. What's the object any idea ?

Oh yes BB!  Just remember but that really does go back !  The words still don't mean anything at all but remember seeing colour pics in UK magazines of two squeaky clean girls and "Which twin is the Toni ?"  :)

LOL - poor Arcadian.  

The heat used on the dryers is more confortable than having cool air on a wet head.  Cool air can give the chills, in my experience.

bikerbraid wrote on Apr 8^th, 2007 at 10:11pm:

LOL - poor Arcadian.   The heat used on the dryers is more confortable than having cool air on a wet head.  Cool air can give the chills, in my experience.

S'okay 'cos it's funny but I’ve just one more really thick duh !  ;)

Obviously wet hair soon gets cold as you'll risk getting head chills without some form of immediate warm covering, so from this I've always thought that women needed hair dryers to dry the hair anyway, plus set all the curls etc. ? Then from all the long hair sites I understood that it's wrong and very damaging and you shouldn't use any at all ....? Then I read on JJJ’s site that she uses some light heat on the underneath only…. Then some long haired ladies simply use several towels after each wash which to me sounds the safest and best of all :-/  :D

I’m thinking it should be more like poor Bikerbraid somehow but what do you do  ?  ;D

After washing or rinsing my hair, I wrap it in a micro fiber towel (super absorbant) for about 30 minutes.  I then finger comb the tangles and let my hair air dry.  If hubby has a fire in the stove, I will stand near it to encourage faster drying.  Winter is a tough time for me to have long hair.  The house is typically cool so it takes quite a while to dry my hair.  I try to wash it in the early evening in hopes that it will dry before bedtime.  It is typically a bit damp when I braid and roll it for bed.  That does give me wonderful waves in the morning.  :D  Damp hair in the morning is not uncommon - particularly the hair close to the nape of my neck.  That is where the hair is the thickest and slowest to dry.

At last a light on the whole subject thanks  :) Do you ever have to use several towels or keep them on overnight ?

Oh yes, just remembered. I saw a pic of your hair recently which I think was now at mid thigh and you said the longest it's ever been ? Have you ever thought of seeing how long it could grow now you've come this far ? A once in a lifetime opportunity, say floor length for the sheer fun experience of it ? Or would that seem too much time and effort spent on it ?

I have 2 micro fiber towels that I can use if it is either very cold in the house, or I need to get my hair to dry faster.  It is not uncommon for me to bun or braid my hair while it is still damp and finish drying it later, if need be.

I have no specific hair length goals - I'm just growing it.  It seems to have slowed considerably now that it has hit classic (actually a bit longer than that).  I'm not sure how much longer it would grow, but as long as I can still style it and it looks decent, I will let it continue to grow.  :)

Quote:

I'm not sure how much longer it would grow, but as long as I can still style it and it looks decent, I will let it continue to grow.

 

Good for you BB ! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Bit of a general question ? Does your hubby, boyfriend, family, relations etc. like your hair long too or not ? Real pity though if hubby doesn't or takes it for granted as I'm sure it would be nice if it was a shared interest. I know I seemed to spend most of my teens trying unsuccessfully to persuade early girl friends to grow it and in particular lose those awful sticky beehive horrors ! Then you occasionally read of a couple both deciding to grow theirs as long as possible simultaneously which is real togetherness if ever !  :)

I also read once on some Board that a lady with knee length hair always used to wear it down and loose if she was going to a party where she didn't know anyone, as it was such a great conversation starter, though sometimes in the end she was forced to put it up as she found she was getting glares from the other ladies as she was only talking to the men !  :D

My hubby likes my hair long and he is the only person I will allow near it with a scissors.  Others that support my long hair..... my boss and the president of my company, another coworker (who is growing out her hair now!), a friend/neighbor who thought she was too old to grow her hair long again (but she is 7 years younger than me!).  It is surprising sometimes who expresses their interest in my hair.

bikerbraid wrote on Apr 9^th, 2007 at 11:32am:

I have 2 micro fiber towels that I can use if it is either very cold in the house, or I need to get my hair to dry faster.  It is not uncommon for me to bun or braid my hair while it is still damp and finish drying it later, if need be.

Hi BB

Simply can't find whether I've asked this already somewhere else, so apols. in advance !

I've been trying to find out some specific pricing information on the interesting micro fibre towels you mentioned, after discovering that basically there are the very cheap ones made in China or similar, and the expensive top quality ones that have the very good high rates of absorption.

Any idea what you have to pay in the States for both top and bottom versions so as I can get a rough idea of percentage differences in Sterling, or how to identify the top range as I'd like to try the best one out ?

Mine always take so long to dry !  :)

Thanks

Cadie

I would consider the "top end" towels to be the Aquis brand.  Here is a site that handles them in the UK..

The cheap version of the towel I pick up at a pet supply store - they are used to dry dogs!.  Petsmart is where I have purchased them in the past.

I got mine from the automotive section at Target.  ;)

Thank you both for the useful info !  :)

In fact it was this site below I finally discovered that gave so much detail and was quite hard to follow.

[url]http://www.thepolishingcompany.com/microfibretechti.html     [/url]

Do you use the "Aquis Diva Dryer" bb ?

I've not found a turban that can handle my hair length.  I use a large towel instead.  My doggy towel is the best as I can wrap my head and hair in it at the same time. My aquis towel I will use after I have initially dried my hair with the doggy towel.  I wrap just the length of my hair in it, then twist it around in a bun to let it continue to dry.

I'll try this one in the largest size - thanks for the advice.

http://www.snugglesafe.co.uk/cgi/acatalog/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2esnugglesafe%2eco%2euk%2f&WD=micro%20towels%20fibre&SHOP=%20&PREVQUERY=SS%3dmicro%2bfibre%2btowels%26PR%3d%2d1%26TB%3dA%26Search%3dSearch%26SHOP%3d%20&PN=grooming_products%2ehtml%23aLC606d#aLC606d

Keep trying but unable to squash these long URL's into just one word or phrase ? How's it done ?  :)

This is actually pretty neat.  One of my favorite bits of hair history is how barber shops used to be doctor's offices as well.  A barber would also be well versed in medicine and would perform bloodlettings - which is where the red & white striped poll comes from. :o

~AnnaBelle~
Pink GHD Straighteners

Yep, the barbers were the ones with the razors!

My favourite historical hair fact is of the women who used their hair to embrioder keepsakes for their menfolk going off to war...they show up occasionally on the Antiques roadshow (UK tv show).

As an aside, another type of hair (coughs*pubic*coughs) is supposed to be great for tying fishing flies with..... ::)